9 days at Kluane Lake, Yukon – Part 1 of 2

Although I’ve gotten ahead of myself with a couple of posts, I would still like to share our 9 days at Kluane Lake with you. I’ve gathered 65 photos so will do it in 2 posts. Although we didn’t do anything major, there was a fair bit of variety, and Kluane is such an amazing, spectacular, powerful area.

Getting the motorhome ready to go was a rather overwhelming project and I almost quit a few times, but by 12:30 on Thursday, September 1st, Cathy and Bella and Tucker and I were westbound on the Alaska Highway. The weather forecast wasn’t particularly good for Kluane, but whatever. The motorhome allows us to be comfortable in any weather, and we don’t need activities to enjoy each other’s company.

The Alaska Highway at Whitehorse, Yukon

Cathy suggested that we stop at The Bakery in Haines Junction for some pastries. She came back with sandwiches as well, so we stopped at the rest area just west of town for a lengthy break. I may well have been forced to take a break if we hadn’t done the voluntary one – 2 hours of driving is pretty much my limit now.

We got the best lakefront camp site at Congdon Creek Campground and after a short walk the pups and I went for a long nap. It was very windy, and the first photos I took were right at 9:00 pm, looking east at the Ruby Range from the beach right in front of us.

Stormy sunset at Kluane Lake, Yukon

Site #9 has lots of room, and a decent view of the lake right from the rig.

Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

I was fried when we got to Kluane, and I see in my journal that I slept for about 18 of the next 24 hours.

It was still very windy Saturday morning, but by 08:00 there was enough blue sky to give us hope for a nice day.

Kluane Lake, Yukon

Behind us, the peaks of the Kluane Front Range, with fresh snow down to about 6,000 feet. The temperature was 8°C/46°F.

Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

Saturday was another quiet day, but that afternoon we drove up to the head of the lake to the dogs’ favourite beach (that also makes it my usual camping spot when Cathy isn’t with me). They much prefer the fine gravel and sand here to the coarse gravel and rocks at Congdon Creek.


The kids weren’t very enthusiastic, but Tucker played ball for a while.

My dog Tucker playing at Kluane Lake, Yukon

Back at the campground, the “Bear in Area” sign amused me. There are pretty much always grizzlies in the area – within a mile or so of Congdon Creek is consistently the best grizzly viewing in the Yukon.

Bear warning sign at Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

A few minutes before 02:00 on Sunday, September 4th, an excellent aurora borealis display began. I wrote about this show a few days ago – see “A Kluane Lake aurora show“.

Aurora Borealis at Kluane Lake, Yukon

Our dog walk morning and evening was just around the entire campground, a simple 1.2 km. On Sunday morning I did an extended loop with the dogs, through a long-abandoned section of the campground. That made it 2.2 km, with lots of Fall colour and a section of beach added to the walk.

Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

Fall colours at Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

There is tens of thousands of dollars worth of buildings and equipment still in the abandoned campground and along the trail beyond, including this viewing deck.

Viewing deck at Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

Parks crews started keeping the trail maintained a couple of years ago, and it really is a lovely walk now.

Walking trail at Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

Towards the end of that walk, I noticed that the bear-resistant tent-camping area with an electrified fence has been tripled in size. Since it was built I’ve asked a few people what they think of it, and with one exception everyone has loved it (the exception said he felt like he was in prison).

Bear-resistant tenting area at Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

Campground time has become spa time for Bella – she gets up on the picnic tables and makes her wishes about grooming very clear. I love watching her and Cathy spend this time together.

Bella getting groomed

By 4:00 Bella and I needed a break by the campfire 🙂

Murray Lundberg and his dog Bella

The wind finally died and by 6:00 it was gorgeous!

Kluane Lake, Yukon

On Monday, September 5, the whole family had a lovely morning on the beach with a pot of coffee. It was only 8°C/46°F when we went down but the sun was warm and it had risen to 10°C/50°F when we came up at noon. Some new snow had been dropped on the Ruby Range overnight, but it all melted as we sat there.

Kluane Lake, Yukon

That afternoon the mountains behind us got rain but we didn’t get hit with any.

Rain in the mountains at Kluane Lake, Yukon

We were feeling lazy that evening and instead of cooking dinner drove to Destruction Bay for burgers at the Talbot Arm. That gave Cathy a chance to phone her mom, too.

Tuesday, September 6 – the simple pleasure of morning coffee with a great view 🙂

Ahhh, morning coffee in the RV

And for some of us, relaxing in a cozy chair. Does that make it a Princess chair? 🙂

My dog Bella sleeping in a chair in the RV

It was a spectacular morning and we finally decided to get the bikes off the RV and get out for some real exercise. I thought I might also hike up Williscroft Canyon again, though that didn’t happen.

Taking the e-bikes off our RV

The pups would be left alone for 2-3 hours so we drove them up to their beach for a good play first. They sometimes get really animated if I go into the water and call them but there was just enough of a breeze to make it too cold for that nonsense 🙂

Bella getting wet at Kluane Lake, Yukon

Tucker getting wet at Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

Fall colours at Congdon Creek Campground, Kluane Lake, Yukon

The Slim’s River Trail West was our plan for the e-bikes, with Soldiers Summit a possible add-on if that went well.

E-biking the Slims River Trail West, Kluane

The first 2.6 km are the gravel access road to the trail, but we only met one vehicle. The trail parking lot (out of sight to the left at this point) had about a dozen vehicles in it.

E-biking the Slims River Trail West, Kluane

This is an excellent trail for the sort of riding we wanted, with only one hill of note. It’s fairly steep but doesn’t really show in the photo.

E-biking the Slims River Trail West, Kluane

We had decided that Sheep Creek would be our turn-around point as it was last year. It’s a great spot for a portrait of the adventurers, too. 🙂

E-biking the Slims River Trail West, Kluane

E-biking the Slims River Trail West, Kluane

On the way back I did a little hike to an awesome view of the entire Slims River valley. It only took a few minutes, and Cathy stayed behind with the bikes.

E-biking the Slims River Trail West, Kluane

Panorama of the Slim's River Valley, Yukon

As we got back near the car, we decided that had gone really well and we should keep going along the highway for a couple of kilometers and ride up the Soldier’s Summit Trail. The ATV trail along the highway provides a decent surface.

ATV trail along the Alaska Highway at Sheep Mountain, Yukon

Though Cathy doesn’t like the sheer drop-offs on the trail past the Alaska Highway opening memorial site, she was a trooper and joined me.

E-biking the Soldiers' Summit Trail, Kluane

The broad views of Kluane Lake, Fish Heart Island and the Slim’s River from that point are wonderful.

E-biking the Soldiers' Summit Trail, Kluane

We put a total of 16.7 km on bikes, which was Cathy’s longest ride yet. Yay us! 🙂

Celebrating a great Yukon with Highland Park single-malt Scotch whisky
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