To Gros Morne and hiking the Green Gardens Trail
On Saturday, June 6th, Day 9 of the trip, we drove another 230 km north to Shoal Brook, one of several communities in Gros Morne National Park. Gros Morne was one of our main destinations in Newfoundland – although we only had one firm plan, a boat tour, we were open to any of the many possibilities.
We stopped at the Canadian Tire in Corner Brook to pick up a few things, including some things like a window squeegee that this motorhome really should be equipped with. During our first shopping trip we bought a $30 coffee maker – for less than $1 a day it’s a nice addition. Corner Brook was a very busy place – traffic was crazy!
At 11:30, just north of Corner Brook, along the Humber River, Cathy shot the first photos of the day.
Marble Mountain is “the premier alpine ski destination in Atlantic Canada,” with 43 runs.
At 12:45 we entered Gros Morne National Park for the first time – we’d be in and out out it a few times over the next four days.
Some of the mountains stil have a good load of snow.
We passed through several small communities along the South Arm of Bonne Bay. Bonne Bay is the only fjord remaining at Gros Morne – two former fjords, Trout River Pond and Western Brook Pond, are now cut off from the sea.
We checked in at the Water’s Edge Gros Morne Campground, and were assigned Site #5, a spacious spot with power and water, right at the water’s edge. We didn’t park, though, heading up the the park Discovery Centre to start our exploring. On the way, the area called The Tablelands was obviously ahead.
Looking out one of the windows Discovery Centre.
We glanced at the exhibits but quickly decided that this was a day to be outside, so talked to a woman at the desk about hiking options, of which there are many. We had 3 in mind, and she confirmed them as good choices. I soon decided to do one of the finest, a 9-km hike that she warned was “a slog” geting back up fromm the beach, and would take 3-4 hours.
Driving to the trailhead at 1:40, with the Tablelands Trail just ahead on the left – it was also on our list.
I was soon on my way – the next photo looks back at the parking lot at 2:00. This trail is far beyond Cathy’s ability and she chose not to even start it, happy to stay back and read in magnificent surroundings.
It was extremely windy and the first part of the trail is across barren rock, but in 10 minutes I had topped the ridge and the wind lessened. I was carrying a jacket in my pack but hoping to not have to put it on. The temperature was about 12°C and I was wearing a long-sleeve tshirt, shorts and my usual Keen sport sandals. I had told Cathy I may not go right down to the beach, and it did look like a long way down from here.
The trail is excellent and it has lots of variety – at 2:35 there was a bridge ahead (the only one on the trail).
Just past that bridge is a good example of the heavy rock work that was involved in building parts of the trail.
Getting closer and closer to the sea was quite exciting – yes, I’d be going right to the beach! 🙂
At 2:45 I came to a waterfall formed by the little creek the bridge crosses. There was no obvious way to get closer to it.
I was making very good time – at 2:47 I shot my first photo of the cliffs that tower over the beach.
This had certainly been the right choice of trail to start with!
There are half a dozen widely-spaced tenting sites above the beach, some with wooden platforms to set up on. This chair was in front of the first one.
This is where the trail ends for most people. Ahead are stairs going down to the beach at Old Man Cove, but they are too sketchy for me to go down – you basically need to go down about 80 slanted steps on your toes.
These lush green slopes seem to be where the name of the trail comes from, but that’s not clear. Sheep are often seen grazing here.
I spotted a sign saying a trail continues another 10 minutes to Steve’s Cove, where the are some excellent sea stacks, and I was feeling great so kept going. Yes, Steve’s Cove was definitely worth the walk.
At 3:15, just an hour and 20 minutes after leaving the RV, I started back. Not bad for a trail variously described as 3-4 hours or a half-day.
I took few photos going back up, but this tiny creek caught my eye.
I did take a few photos of flowers, including this showy Rhododendron canadense in a moist spot along that creek.
And this plant which may be Amelanchier bartramiana, commonly known as Bartram’s serviceberry or mountain shadbush.
I got back to the RV 2 hours and 51 minutes after leaving. I showed Cathy my Strava screen and started with “now I’m just showing off” 🙂
The distance was 9.85 km, with an elevation gain of 331 meters. I’m fairly certain that this was the tounghest hike since my injury 7 years ago. Yes, I’m very pleased.
The weather forecast was now quite awful, but the next day we’d drive 68 km to Harbour View RV Park at Rocky Harbour, for a 2-night stay.
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Great story of an amazing hike to sea. Tomorrow you can tackle another one weather permitting.