An evening/night drive to Kluane and back
Sometimes things don’t work out the way you’d planned, but as long as you’re adaptable, what happens can still be enjoyable. That was certainly the case with this 11-hour, 585-km drive to Burwash Landing on Kluane Lake and back.
The aurora forecast for Sunday night called for a very strong show, and after the aurora we’ve seen in the past month, I had high hopes for another spectacular night.
There was only one problem – but it was a big one. The weather forecast called for clouds with a possibility of snow flurries in Whitehorse. Looking at forecasts around the Yukon, I only found one place with clear skies, both current and forecast – Burwash Landing. That’s almost 300 kilometers one way (186 miles), about the limit I’m willing to drive for something like this, but with hopes that the clear skies would be nearer, I prepared for another all-nighter shooting amazing auroral displays.
I left home at 7:15 pm, with the temperature at +7°C (45°F) – there would be no suffering through bitter cold on this aurora shoot! 🙂 By 8:00 when I took this photo looking west on the Alaska Highway (35 minutes before sunset), it appeared that the drive might be a bit slower than planned due to the gorgeous sky.
I made the next stop just 5 minutes later, at a spot where I shoot fairly often. This looking back towards Whitehorse from Km 1475.3 (Mile/Km 0 is at Dawson Creek, BC).
As the skies started to clear, I noted that light from the moon, which was about 3/4 full, would be a bit of a problem with aurora shooting.
Looking west from Km 1493.7 at 8:22 – 13 minutes until sunset.
Ten minutes after sunset, at Km 1531. A few minutes later, I stopped at the Otter Falls Cutoff lodge to fill my gas tank and get some water and junk food for the night. With almost no traffic on the highway I don’t know how they stay open 24 hours, but it’s a quality operation and I’m happy to spend a few dollars pretty well every time I go by to help keep them open.
Haines Junction was very quiet when I went through at 9:15 – the 6 motels had less than a dozen cars total in their parking lots. This is the Cozy Corner Motel.
I could see from Haines Junction that there was clear sky ahead, but it seemed to stay many miles ahead of me. At the viewpoint overlooking Kluane Lake, it was still a few miles ahead, and not as clear as I’d expected.
From miles away I could see 3 vehicles coming around the lake, so I set up my tripod and waited for them. The cloud layer was thin enough to let enough moonlight through to light up the mountains beautifully.
I set up the tripod at a pullout at the base of Sheep Mountain with the idea of doing more traffic shots on the curves around the lake south of there.
After 20 minutes waiting for a vehicle to come along, I gave up – there was a very strong south wind blowing up dust from the dry lakebed, and it just wasn’t a comfortable place to be despite still being +1C (34F). Of course, seconds after knocking the tripod down, a car arrived! I tried a hand-held 20-second exposure, knowing that it wouldn’t get what I wanted, but… 🙂
I did go as far as Burwash Landing, arriving just after 11:30. The skies were no longer clear, and there was no aurora visible through the thin cloud layer. I’d heard that the historic Burwash Landing Resort was closed and going to be demolished, so I took a few photos, knowing that I may never see it again. I’ve spent a lot of time at the lodge over the past 25 years, including many overnight stays, and even stopped in on my first visit to the Yukon in 1985. The owners for a few decades, Ollie and Helen Worth, were a big part of the lodge’s fame, and when they sold a few years ago it went downhill pretty quick. sigh – another one bites the dust 🙁
I headed back towards Whitehorse, and stopped along Kluane Lake for a 3-hour nap, hoping that clear skies and aurora would both arrive, but though I opened my eyes a few times, they never did. When I reached the Aishihik River at 04:00, there was a very faint glow to the north, so I stopped and got the only aurora photos of the night.
Looking back at the highway, the Aishihik River bridge and the moon.
I was home by 06:00, disappointed that the night wasn’t what I’d hoped for, but pleased with a beautiful night on the road that got some images I’m pleased with.
Now, I have a lot to do to get ready for a 5-day Easter weekend in Haines. The biggest job is getting all the necessary equipment installed so we can tow Cathy’s Chevy Tracker behind the motorhome.
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