Day 5: Wandering through Idaho and Montana

Travel excites me. Especially largely-unplanned travel – I love not knowing what’s around the next corner, and being able to take detours on a whim. Tuesday was one of those days – not spectacular, but very special.

The well-equipped motorhome dash had an addition this morning, with a souvenir from the Snake River RV Park added to the Spot, the GPS, my faithful lead dog Nanook, and a visor 🙂 I slept like the dead the night before, and didn’t get back on the road until 07:30.

Motorhome dash with tools and toys

“Back on the road” had already gotten a change in meaning – rather than the fast way on I-15, I decided to go northeast on Route 20 for a peek at Yellowstone. Just a quick one, mind you 🙂

Yesterday it was an Alaska moving truck, today it was a Yukon sign (okay, they misspelled it but that’s okay) 🙂

Ucon, Idaho

I stopped a few times around Ashton to take photos.

Agriculture near Ashton, Idaho.

Barely visible through wildfire haze, the mountain range that includes The Three Tetons – originally Trois Tetons in French – meaning three breasts.

The Three Tetons

Just north of Ashton, I got delayed a bit by construction.

Construction on Idaho Route 20

Looking north on Route 20 from Island Park. The Idaho/Montana border is about 20 minutes ahead, but I didn’t see a sign noting it.

Island Park

Reaching West Yellowstone at 10:00, I quickly gave up any thoughts of seeing any of the park. There were hundreds of vehicles sitting still, and the park gates are quite a ways in yet.

Heavy traffic in West Yellowstone

Heading north on Highway 191, I made a U-turn and went back to the Yellowstone Airport, but there was no indication that scenic flights are done here. I took the side road into the West Yellowstone water bomber base, but there were no planes – probably all off fighting the Oregon and Washington fires.

West Yellowstone Fire Center sign

I turned west on the Hebgen Lake Road (U.S. Route 287), which turned out to be exceptionally interesting. I had stopped to read signs describing the largest earthquake ever recorded in the Rocky Mountains, which occurred on the night of August 17, 1959. A local stopped to show some people with him the information, and recommended that I take the self-guided auto tour and some of the walks, for which there were brochures available.

Hebgen Lake Road, Montana

The Hebgen Lake Earthquake measured 7.5 on the Richter scale, and killed 28 people.

Hebgen Lake Earthquake sign

I was 8 years old when the earthquake happened, and I have vague memories of the story, I think because it was mostly campers who were killed by a huge landslide and floodwaters.

Hebgen Lake Earthquake newspaper story

I went for a walk at a site called “The Lake That Tilted”, to the ruins of the Hilgard Lodge that was destroyed that night.

Ruins of the Hilgard Lodge, Montana

An old section of the highway, much of which was destroyed by the quake, landslides or floodwaters.

Old highway through the Hebgen Lake Earthquake area

Just before noon, I went for a long walk above the Earthquake Lake Visitor Center, seen at the center right of the next photo. To the left in the photo is a boulder bearing a plaque with the names of all the victims of the slide that created the lake.

Earthquake Lake Visitor Center, Montana

The earthquake-triggered slide, containing about 80 million tons or rock and gravel. Many of the victims’ bodies were never recovered.

Earthquake Lake landslide

The view to the west (the West Portal).

The West Portal at Earthquake Lake, Montana

By 12:30, I was northbound on 287, into a series of thunderstorms that produced some impressive lightning, though not a lot of rain.

Highway 287 in Montana

South of Harrison, Montana, looking to the west.

South of Harrison, Montana, looking to the west.

The huge Golden Sunlight Mine, seen from Montana Highway 69. Six weeks ago, the mine’s owner, Barrick Gold, hired the Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce to help them sell the mine, which has been recovering gold since 1975 but reports only 192,000 ounces of reserves left (about 2 years’ production).

Golden Sunlight Mine, Montana

On I-15 north of Helena just after 4:00 pm. About a mile ahead, I saw the first serious car crash of the trip – a mid-sized American car had hit the median and was totalled, but the woman driver was standing beside a Trooper’s car talking to him. A few miles to the left of this pass is Glacier National Park, a few to the right is the Gates of the Mountains Wilderness.

I-15 north of Helena

This rest area at Lyons Creek, just north of the pass seen above, is one of the nicest I’ve ever seen anywhere. Everything from washrooms to interpretive signage gets top marks. I made a short stop there at 4:30.

Lyons Creek Rest Area, Montana

Northbound on I-15 between Cascade and Ulm at 5:00 pm.

Northbound on I-15 between Cascade and Ulm, Montana

I decided to spend Tuesday night at Dick’s RV Park in Great Falls, 4 blocks from I-15 and only 2 hours from the border. They didn’t have any power-only sites left, but a full hookup site only cost $36.59 for the night.