On to Rocky Harbour – a lighthouse and an aquarium
On Sunday, June 7th, Day 10 of the trip, the weather was awful, with heavy rain and high winds. We spent some time at the Gros Morne National Park Discovery Centre, then drove 68 km to Harbour View RV Park at Rocky Harbour, for a 2-night stay.
After our very brief look at the Discovery Centre the day before, we spent about 90 minutes today. The main interpretation is about the complex geology of the park area. It’s possible to have a quick look to get the basic idea, or a much deeper dive into the details. It soon became clear why Gros Morne was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 – its unique geological features that illustrate the process of continental drift and plate tectonics make it significant to scientists around the world
The Green Gardens hike I did gets a lot of coverage, and the specific rocks that make it important are displayed in both natural and polished form and are well described.
The large First Nations room shows everything from the earliest history to modern art.
Storm warnings had been issued, and by the time we were ready to leave at about 1:00 it was clear why. This was the view from the Discovery Centre.
Parks Canada has an RV dump at the south edge of the park, and as dumps are uncommon as we go north, I decided to use it. My good rain gear was on my list of stuff to bring but somehow didn’t actually get packed, so I got very wet.
I stopped for a photo as we started north on Highway 431. The Viking Trail sign, which was the one I actually stopped for, is new – it wasn’t there when Google Streetview recorded that spot in July 2025.
At Harbour View RV Park, we were assigned site #14 on the upper of two levels. There are 32 fully-serviced sites. There wasn’t much to do except hunker down as everyone else was doing, but it was almost dinner time anyway. We’ve been eating quite well and healthy, but tonight it was hot dogs and bean salad.
The next morning was very cold, 3°C with a strong wind, but the possible snow that had been forecast didn’t happen and it wasn’t even raining!
Off in the distance we could see the Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse, and that was our first destination – it’s exactly 4 km from our camp site. You would never know from the size of the parking lot that the museum is the main tourist destination at Rocky Harbour – it’s tiny. The next photo looks back at it as we walked toward the lighthouse.
Welcome to Lobster Cove Head.
As we approached the lighthouse I wondered aloud what the meaning of the flags flying was.
Right in front of the flagpole there’s an interpretive panel explaining them – the current flags spell SKIFF.
I always hope to be able to get up to the light level of lighthouses, but it never happens. Here, one set of stairs had a “Staff Only” sign, and the door to this set was locked. Each step has a duty to be performed – “Inspect chains,” “Clean lens and chimneys,” “Check timing,” etc.
It seems to me that Parks Canada interpretation keeps getting better and better – it’s extremely good here. Personal commentary is common among what could be just dry facts – as well as the broad view, here’s how it affected the people living here. What brought people to this tough land, and what kept them here? Life wasn’t easy for a lighthouse-keeper family, and that’s made clear here, particularly if you walk some of the trails down to George’s Young’s Garden or to the beaches. The interpreter we spent a long time talking to added a lot to our visit.
The best views of the lighthouse are not seen from the main paths.
This is a rugged coast!
Cormorants and gulls were attracted to one particular islet.
We spent over an hour and a half at the lighthouse, then it was time to move on, though nothing was particularly drawing us. Cathy had heard that Norris Point was worth checking out and an aquarium there was intriguing, so that short drive (14 km) was next.
The “aquarium” is the Bonne Bay Aquarium and Research Station, and this turned out to be an hour-long visit.
The visit started off slow, with lots of information posters and a whale skull…
I went upstairs and got a good view of the cool rock that goes along the far side of the little harbour.
In the other direction, a couple of people were pulling in a net with something in it. A dozen or so people crowded around to see it, but In couldn’t tell what it was. This was apparently a research class.
Back downstairs, we found tanks of touchable sea creatures and passionate interpreters. That’s when this turned into a long visit!
There was a lot to see in those two tanks, some invisible until it moved or the interpreter lifted it out. It’s a fascinating world down there.
There was a whole lot going on in the back room as well.
Cathy wanted to get some laundry done so we decided to get an early dinner at a restaurant. I said to the women at the front desk of the aquarium that I suddenly had a craving for fish and chips, and asked where the best choice would be. I was directed to a place about a mile from our RV park. I stopped for a few photos on the way out of Norris Pont, including this boat.
Parking the motorhome at Earle’s Restaurant & Ice Cream Parlor in Rocky Harbour was easy, and there was only one other person there, as expected at 3:30 or whatever it was.
The advice we got was excellent. This cod was as good as I’ve ever had anywhere! Cathy had read about a Newfoundland add-on for fries – dressing and gravy – and we gave that a try. Cathy says she might order it again – I won’t. I didn’t dislike it, but I don’t think it added anything to the experience.
It’s now 09:00 on June 9th, and in an hour we’re heading north to take a boat tour along the spectacular fjord/lake called Western Brook Pond. Before closing this post, though, I want to tell you about the Harbour View RV Park. I was going to call this one of the nicest campgrounds I’ve ever stayed at, but no, it is simply the best one. It just opened in 2024, and “new” is always nice, but if you build cheap or don’t maintain it, it falls apart quickly. This property was built well, and is meticulously maintained. Add to that hosts who are outgoing and charming for a complete winning package.
First two photos shot a few minutes ago.
The washrooms are huge, warm, and immaculate.
The laundry…
…and a large barbecue/eating/cleanup area.
Finally, I had to ask about this unique flag they fly. While I knew it was the Newfoundland and Canadian flags blended, I wasn’t sure about its intention. The reason is simple, I was told – it’s a statement of pride at being both Newfoundlanders and Canadians.
Off to Western Brook Pond we go…
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