Europe Day 1: Whitehorse to Vancouver

Today is the first of 38 days of the grandest Adventure Cathy and I have ever been on. Although it wasn’t intended that way, perhaps it is a celebration of the 25th anniversary of our first meeting, at Carcross on June 10, 2000. We’re starting in Paris, then most of the trip will be a 28-day cruise that visits Norway, Iceland, and Greenland primarily.

We checked in at the Air North counter at 10:20, early enough for our 11;50 flight that it was still very quiet.

The Air North desks at Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport.

There wasn’t much activity on the field.

Airplane-watching at Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport while waiting for our flight.

A couple of water bombers taking off perked up a few of us in the waiting area. N419BT is a Canadair CL-215T operated by Bridger Aerospace from Montana.

N419BT, a Canadair CL-215T operated by Bridger Aerospace from Montana, seen at Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport.

Our flight was half an hour late, but at 12:15 I shot this photo of C-FVGF, an Aerospatiale ATR 42, from my seat in a Boeing 737.

C-FVGF, an Aerospatiale ATR 42 operated by Air North, seen at Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport.

The never-ending construction has the main runway closed again, but at 12:29 we taxied across it to what will some day once again be the secondary runway.

Runway reconstruction at Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport.

I’d love to see a report some day of what exactly they’re doing. I got a good look at it as we took off, though.

An aerial view of the runway reconstruction at Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport.

An aerial view of the runway reconstruction at Erik Nielsen Whitehorse International Airport.

As expected, wildfire smoke reduced visibility a lot. There are 2 fires just north of Atlin as of a couple of days ago, and I expect the people on the other side of the plane got a look at them. On my side, the incredibly rugged peaks between Atlin and Juneau could be seen at 12:46.

An aerial view of the incredibly rugged peaks between Atlin and Juneau, obscured by wildfire smoke.

The Llewellyn Glacier a few seconds later.

An aerial view of the Llewellyn Glacier at Atlin, obscured by wildfire smoke.

I got a couple more photos of the Brucejack gold mine north of Stewart. I first saw it in 2021 – the final 15 km or so of the access road from the Stewart-Cassiar Highway to the mine was built down the middle of the Knipple Glacier.

An aerial photo of the Brucejack gold mine north of Stewart, BC.

I didn’t shoot any more photos on the way to Vancouver, where we landed at about 2:30. Cathy and I both enjoy the Canada Line when we’ve reserved a hotel close to it, and that was the case this time. At 3:05 we were nearing the train station.

Walking to the Canada Line station at Vancouver International Airport (YVR).

Getting tickets was confusing, but Cathy eventually got it done. Though it didn’t seem like the right tickets, it was all the machine would offer, so it would have to do ๐Ÿ™‚

Getting tickets from the machines at the Canada Line station at Vancouver International Airport (YVR).

Getting tickets from the machines at the Canada Line station at Vancouver International Airport (YVR).

I got a seat one back from the front of the train, an excellent photo location ๐Ÿ™‚

Headed to downtown Vancouver from the airport, on the Canada Line.

The number of buildings going up around the first station north of the Fraser River (Marine Drive Station) has been incredible. Convenience and a great view are certainly a marketable combination.

Headed to downtown Vancouver from the airport, on the Canada Line. Approaching Marine Drive Station.

From here to downtown, the Canada Line runs underground.

Headed to downtown Vancouver from the airport, on the Canada Line.  Going underground.

By setting the big camera to ISO 16000 and 1/200th of a second, I got a few decent photos of the tunnel and stations.

Headed to downtown Vancouver from the airport, on the Canada Line.

Downtown, you come up from the Canadian Line into the beautiful and historic Canadian Pacific Railway station, built in 1910.

Vancouver's beautiful and historic Canadian Pacific Railway station, built in 1910.

From there to the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel is only a couple of blocks. The Celebrity Solstice, a gorgeous ship that took us to Hawaii, was docked in front of the hotel at Canada Place.

The Celebrity Solstice docked at Canada Place in Vancouver.

At check-in, we were asked if we’d like to upgrade to Fairmont Gold for $120. The list of perks sounded good, and we accepted. That turned out to be a very good move. At 4:15 we walked into room 916, and were very pleased ๐Ÿ™‚

Room 916 at the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

The room description led us to believe there would be no water view, but there was.

A waterfront view from Room 916 at the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

It took a minute to figure out where some nice music was coming from – it was a busker on the sidewalk below.

A busker far below, seen from Room 916 at the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

At 5:00 the Solstice departed on a 7-day Alaska itinerary.

The Celebrity Solstice sailing from Canada Place in Vancouver.

The old Alaska state ferry Bartlett is still moored at what used to be the main commercial fishing boat area.

The old Alaska state ferry Bartlett is still moored at what used to be the main commercial fishing boat area in Vancouver.

Architecture is one of the things I love the most about Vancouver, and year after year, decade after decade, I keep photographing the infinite variety of details like this tower on the Sinclair Centre.

A tower on the Sinclair Centre in Vancouver.

The Fairmont Gold upgrade got us access to a large lounge on the 9th floor. It has both inside and outside areas, both peaceful places to enjoy our stay.

The patio of the Fairmont Gold lounge on the 9th floor of the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

Six floors below is the swimming pool.

The pool at the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver, seen from the 9th floor Fairmont Gold patio.

This broad view also brought some details to my attention.

A view from the patio of the Fairmont Gold lounge on the 9th floor of the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

My favourite building in Vancouver, the Marine Building, an Art Deco gem that dominated the skyline when I was kid, now peeks out here and there between new towers.

A view from the patio of the Fairmont Gold lounge on the 9th floor of the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

On top of the Lot 19 building at the bottom centre of the broad view is this deluxe-looking patio.

A view from the patio of the Fairmont Gold lounge on the 9th floor of the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

There are so many great places in Vancouver for people to relax, like this spot right below us.

A view from the patio of the Fairmont Gold lounge on the 9th floor of the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

The Fairmont Waterfront has a rooftop garden and apiary. They have tours every day at 3 pm, but we unfortunately had to leave about then.

The Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver has a rooftop garden and apiary.

We went out for a walk along the waterfront, and this Coast Guard ship, Naalak Nappaaluk, was one of the vessels that sailed by. Launched last August, she has just started sea trials.

The new (2024) Coast Guard ship, Naalak Nappaaluk, seen at Vancouver.

A deluxe expedition ship, the Roald Amundsen, took the berth where the Solstice had been, and we walked over to a very large public space that offered a good look at it.

The deluxe expedition ship Roald Amundsen docked at Canada Place in Vancouver.

That space also offered a colourful addition to that view.

The 'Vancouver" sign overlooking Canada Place in Vancouver.

The view to the east looks over the ramp to the Seabus ferries that run across the harbour to North Vancouver, to what’s left of the railyards and beyond.

The ramp to the Seabus ferries that run across the harbour to North Vancouver, and what's left of the waterfront railyards.

A Seabus.

A Seabus ferry at Vancouver.

Walking back to hotel, I spotted a McDonald’s sign and suddenly got a craving for a filet of fish! Weird – I hadn’t had one in decades. With that accomplished, though, our route took us up alongside this wonderful water feature.

A wonderful water feature in Vancouver.

Back on the 9th-floor patio, I noticed two Vancouver City Police cars parked below, with their emergency lights on. Two other police cars joined them, without lights, but though they stayed for a long time I never did figure out what brought them.

A Vancouver City Police car with lights flashing but nobody around.

Looking directly up from my seat on the patio.

The Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver, looking up from the 9th-floor patio.

The inside part of the Fairmont Gold lounge.

The inside part of the Fairmont Gold lounge on the 9th floor of the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

Getting back to our room at 8:45, we were reminded what we love about Fairmont – their attention to the little details. Our bed had been made after a nap messed it up, and there was a pitcher of cold water and a pair of slippers on each side of the bed.

Room 916 at the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

A final photo from our room at 9:35 as our busy day ended.

A late-evening view from Room 916 at the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.

I wrote this post while sitting on our Icelandair flight – it was pretty tight but I made it work. Nearing the end of writing it, we passed over Greenland at 37,000 feet, but clouds completely obscured it. When I finished it was 01:11 in Vancouver, and we were exactly one hour from Reykjavik. We had a short break there and then continued on to Paris, another 3 hour flight. I’m posting this from our hotel in Paris. What a start to this Adventure!

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